Trail Magic and making friends!!

Woke up on the morning of day 35 (5/24) feeling like someone put a light up sign over my head that read 'bug buffet'. I was covered in red itchy bumps! (Determined later that they were the biggest hives I've ever had as a reaction to the laundry detergent/fabric softener that our sheet had been washed in).
At 2.8 miles of our 15 mile day, we were pleasantly surprised with an entire cooler full of cold sodas!! Yay for early trail magic!

We saw 13 other SOBO hikers on the way down (we forgot it was Memorial Day weekend). Some of them day hikers (or day walkers as we like to joke). All of us thru hikers crack jokes about the day hikers. After dealing with your own unwashed funk for a few days in the mountains, you can pick out the day hikers by the smell alone. They smell amazing!!! Like soap and cologne and fabric softener. Rob and I try to clean up daily either in the creek/stream or with a baby wipe bath. But it's just not the same as a good 'ol shower!! 

So after a frustrating day of lots of uphill hiking (the senseless ups and downs rule really applies!! Some days you go down only to go back up). We were accompanied by the 'popcorn crickets' again today. These are baby crickets that jump in and out of the dry leaves on either side of the trail by the hundreds as you walk by. It seriously sounds like popcorn!!!
We stayed at a random campsite that night alone. Except for the symphony of owls that woke us up around midnight. It's funny, i can't tell you how many times I'd been asked if I was going to bring a gun. Seriously, except for the chance meeting of a bear, or the weather going completely haywire, I've never felt so completely safe in my life. Just about everyone you meet is incredibly nice!
The next morning as we were packing up a random large dog walked down the trail (the trail was above where we were camping). We waited but didn't see anyone hiking behind it. We then figured out it was a coyote! Bye Wile E. Have a good hike!
(5/25)We hiked on and came across amazing trail magic! An entire cooler filled to the brim with sodas, sandwiches, brownies, cookies, milk and even dog biscuits!!

Made our whole day and it was only 9am!! We got to the shelter (called No Business Knob Shelter, apparently because it had no business being there. No water source, no privy, no cables to hang our food bags. And the inside looked like a high school bathroom with all the graffiti). However, we did meet 4 super cool section hikers; Lou, Ryan, Brian, and Mike. Mike had an iPod and a speaker so we had music!! What a luxury!! We were all headed to Erwin, Tennessee the next day to stay at Uncle Johnny's Hostel. We also found that Mike's trail name was 'Winebag' because he carried a 3 liter bag of wine for then to drink the first couple of days. We also tried to give Brain the name Candypants because of his love for candy! All around a nice evening.

Sadly I don't remember where I took these exactly. I know it was between the trail magic and No Business Knob Shelter. But pretty view of a cascade. 

Days 32(5/21) thru 34 (5/23)

After a few lovely days in Asheville, we still had to figure out how to get back to the trail. We caught a ride with a guy from the hostel who charged us 20$. He said we'd leave at 1pm but then text to say his errands were running late and he'd be there at 2. At 2:20 he pulled up in his Lexus SUV and after setting the navigation we were off. Except that his navigation was set to French. He doesn't speak French but is trying to teach himself via his navigation unit. Needless to say we took a wrong turn and our 45 minute journey took an hour and 20 minutes. So then we were off on the trail (finally) at about 3:30. After a slight misread of the map (hey it happens!!) we rolled into camp at 7:30. A little later than we would like and had to hang the bear bag in the dark but whatever. Also since we did things in the dark with our headlamps on, some suicidal little beetle with glowing red eyes flew into me at full speed.. Twice!! Only to knock himself to the ground. As I wrote this in my journal, I could hear him buzzing on the other side of the tent stalking me..
We had a little shower overnight but were able to pack up a dry tent! As we hiked (4 or 5 miles) we saw a small sign that said "Mom's - hikers welcome". We decided that if we could see it from the road, we'd go get a cold drink (it was damn humid and pretty warm). Well we could see a sign so we went to go investigate! What we got to was an old dilapidated fossil of a store, but it was open! Kind of like a roadside snack bar! Reasonably priced drinks and snacks!
We headed to the next shelter for a break where we got to see Spider and Tramp again with Tramp's dog Little Bear now in tow! It was wonderful to see them and catch up! Then a 1.3 mile climb straight up (1100 feet) to our campsite next to a lovely babbling brook (mile 295). We had a few other hikers there. We had no sooner gotten everything packed up when it started to rain! It rained on and off all night.
The next morning we got up and had gotten stuff packed up when the sky opened up with a big cup of 'eff you'and provided us with a 20 minute monsoon. Luckily, the tent was still set up and we were able to cover our backpacks up in time and dive in before we got completely soaked! As we were waiting it out we heard 'get outta the tent you wussies'. 2 hikers were razzing us. They asked if we were staying dry and when we told them 'mostly', they told us that was good cause our tent looked like it was sitting in a small pond.
When the rain finally let up we stuffed a very soggy, filthy tent into the tent bag (not fun) and headed down our soggy trail. We came to a part on the trail marked in our guidebook as 'rocky and strenuous'.. Yeah cause we haven't done anything like that yet.. Sheesh.. What it should have said was 'exposed ridgeline'. Yes it was rocky and a bit trying but the sun decided to peak it's head out and the views were gorgeous! 

We had a snack at the first shelter we came to and since Mr. Sun was out I got to dry a few things out! I also found a new pair of camp shoes someone had left behind! Yay for Hiker discards!
We summited Big Butt Mountain (no kidding! That's the name, and sadly no sign to take a picture of). We also passed a gravestone/ashes site of someone who had hiked the trail in 1965.
So we made it to our destination of the second shelter, Flint Mountain Shelter at mile 306.2. Meaning we've passed the 300 miles milestone! (Sadly we missed where someone had written it in rocks on the side of the trail. Oh and Gerard Butler.) 

So even though the day started out less than desirable, it turned out ok. There is never really an easy day on the tail, but some days are easier than others.

Hot Springs and hitchhiking!

So we made it! 13.5 miles to Hot Springs and it was amazing! The clouds blew off midday and it turned out to be a beautiful day! After checking into our Hostel, we attacked the laundry room and shower with a vengeance! After spending 3 days in the same clothes (trying to stay warm) it was wonderful to get clean and have everything dry and smelling good. We resupplied at dollar general (who knew they had such an amazing food selection) and then headed down to have a beer or two with the other hikers.  These symbols are down the one side of the street to let you know you're still on the AT!

Some random other pictures, a mailbox in a shelter that is used to store the trail register.

This is the back of a T-shirt we found in a local outfitter. Can't wait to go here! 

A sticker I would like to turn into a tattoo when we're all done

A sign on the way to Hot Springs that tells you how much farther you have to go to get to Maine.

One of the most moving images I've seen about finishing the trail. This is the sign at Katahdin and when you reach it, you know you've finally made it!

After some beers and laughs with everyone we went back to the Hostel to get a good night's sleep but ended up talking to the caretaker Mark about the characters we've seen on the trail. I also made everyone popcorn in a pot, not the microwave crap. The Hostel is actually run by 2 hikers (Chuck Norris and yes he looks like him and Tigger, who we never saw). 

So the next day we got up, packed and ready to head out. After a stop at the local outfitter we sat out front having sodas and taking to some other hikers. I saw we were only about 32 miles from Asheville, a veritable craft beer town like Portland. I told Rob we should try our luck in hitchhiking because when were we ever going to be this close again! And there is an amazing brewery there called Wicked Weed. The outfitter gave us some cardboard to make a sign (which said Asheville, c/o Wicked Weed) and we stood out on the road. It took about 45 minutes but a super cool older gentleman picked us up. He was awesome! While talking to him we found out he grew up in Rochester, NY not too far from Rob's hometown in Buffalo. He also went to the original Woodstock. Needless to say, he was a joy and a pleasure to talk to! He gave us a heads up that Asheville is a town for old hippies. It looks just like if Portland had a acid induced love child with San Francisco's Haight/Ashbury st. He dropped us off in downtown, a 10 minute walk from Wicked Weed. We walked into the restaurant/bar and sat down. While we sat, I told a girl behind the bar, hey you want to hear something funny? I told her about us hiking the trail and that we hitchhiked from Hot Springs to specifically come here! We showed her or sign. She loved our story and unbeknownst to us, was the restaurant manager. She (Alayna) bought our first 2 flights. 

She came over a little later and said the Chef was so moved by our story that he sent out this beautiful cheese sampler plate! He said his name was 'Google Bear' so we're assuming a fellow Hiker! 

Aftera few more minutes, she said the brewers asked if we would take a picture in front of the building with our sign and packs so they could put it on their FB page. We agreed and said they could even use our names if they wanted to! 

 We met Walt, one of the main brewers and got to talk to him for awhile. He even brought us this amazing beer to try!

We also got to meet one of the head guys from French Broad brewery who gave us the name of a cab driver that would take us there for minimal cash. When we went upstairs to get our packs, we met 2 ladies that saw our packs and chatted us up about us hiking and how we got here. One even gave us a ride to Sweet pea Hostel! We checked in to what has to be the cleanest, nicest Hostel I've ever seen! We dumped our packs in our room and called Woody, our cab driver for the evening. He kind of reminded me of Woody from the movie Earth Girls are Easy. A quick 10 minute ride, with a brief history of the town from Woody, and we were at French Broad. We went to the bar and were told that the brewer had taken care of all our beers! Such hospitality in this city, it's unreal! Then we walked across the train tracks to sample beers at Catawba brewing! We met one of the bartenders who also hiked the AT (trail name Trail Angel). Awesome guy who sent us with a 6 pack for our journey. After another call to Woody, we were on our way back to the Hostel for some sleep. We did hit the bar underneath the Hostel to sample their beers too but it was kind of like a Gordon Biersch type place. 

The next day we woke up and decided to spend a full day here to truly enjoy the town. Because we're on Hiker time (up at 6:30) we got breakfast, a shower and some coffee. The rest of Asheville apparently does not open till 10/11 or noon, and it was only Tuesday. We wandered around to the fun funky little shops, and had pizza and a beer at the Mellow Mushroom (woohoo that makes 3 we've been to). We also hit a grocery store as our Hostel has a full kitchen! We came back to relax, watch a movie and play scrabble. We wandered to a few more shops before we settled at Asheville Brewing company for 2$ can and pizza slice night. Walking the streets and reading all the menus from all the restaurants, checking out the local fun shops is awesome! We hit another funky place in the way home called the Thirsty Monk which boasts 40th best place in the world to have a beer. Cute place but by the end of our first flight, we were almost falling asleep. After sampling our 2nd flight we were on our way back to get some sleep. It's been wonderful here in Asheville but we gotta get back to the trail! We're missing the fresh air but it had been nice to relax after a month on the trail. 

Standing Bear farm and out of the Smokies!

After hiking out of the Smokies, we had planned to stop at this little Hostel called Standing Bear Farm (in Tennessee. Remember I said we'd be straddling the state lines for the next few miles. Yeah try 200, until we get to Virginia) to resupply and to stay a night in a bed.
Apparently the night before a BIG bear had wandered very close to our shelter but a hiker's cough scared it away. We had to do 11 miles at a jarring downhill. I had a blister the size of a Buick on my pinky toe and then twisted my ankle partway down. However the last 3 miles was very pretty with the river crossings and waterfalls.

So onto Standing Bear. We had no intention of staying but seeing the weather report of 100% chance of rain, we stayed, unfortunately had to take another zero day. But the place was pretty cool. The resupply closet was more stocked than some of the other store we've been to and there was a 'beer shack'. Rocket (the caretaker) is a large source of entertainment with his constant drinking of whiskey and mellow yellow out of his mason jar. He usually starts around 2pm. There are also roosters, chickens, cats and dogs. When we got there we were asked 'are y'all a couple' after saying yes we were asked if we'd like the cabin or a treehouse. It's kind of a no-brained, if you're offered a treehouse, you take the treehouse! 

Our treehouse was right by the creek and between that and the rain on the roof! Sleep was pretty pleasant. I should mention as well that there was no washing machine. Just 2 sinks and an old washboard and wringer. Rob has pictures on his camera of me doing laundry. Thankfully, they had a drier. Oh and also an indoor shower and an outdoor one. The outdoor one was amazing! But no actual toilet so we had to use a privy. (Once again for anyone who has forgotten, a privy is basically an elevated outhouse)

For the record, you very sucked into this place! It's kind of like Hotel California! You can check out but you may never leave!! 

Our second day there, we got cheaper sleeping arrangements (so no more treehouse. Besides, we had apparently caused quite a stir and now there was a waiting list for it), and because of the crappy weather, we sent out postcards, played scrabble, calorie loaded (ate like pigs) and read. The bonus at least is that Rob's lost 20lbs and I've lost 12. 

The next day we did another 15 mile day, the clouds stated to burn off but then the wind blew in and started misting on us. The temperature dropped to the 40s. We went across this bald called Max Patch(a place where there are no trees) and got lucky enough to miss some of the sort crappy weather on top, but the wind was threatening to use my pack as a sail). The views were spectacular! 

We had 18 more miles to Hot Springs, NC where the trail actually goes down the main street. When we got up, it was super chilly and was supposed to be freezing rain later on in the day. Us and 3 other hikers decided to take a short day and bundle up in the shelter to try to warm up. It was a fairly miserable day with no excitement other than us trying to stay warm. The bonus is now we're out of the Smokies and we can camp anywhere we want!! 

North Carolina, Tennessee, North Carolina, Tennessee

When we last left our heroes they were trying to escape the clutches of the touristy town!

So the next morning dawned sunny with a few clouds. We grabbed a shuttle and went up to hike to Clingman's Dome, the highest point of the AT at 6,643ft (in North Carolina). We had to hike up a half mile on the wheelchair ramp from hell! People are stopping every 50 feet out so to take a breath and here's us trucking along with our heavy packs. A nice ranger watched our packs while we went up to the observation deck to take pictures.

This is the observation Deck you walk up. Completely open to the public! 

View just from the parking lot. The clouds had settled a bit in the valley. 

Cheeseballs at the highest point of the AT. 

So we made our way down to the next shelter. The silly thing about the Great Smoky Mountains is you have to pay and reserve a spot at the shelters, you can't just freely camp like you can almost everywhere else on the trail. As thru hikers, we buy a 'backcountry permit' which means we can stay in any shelter we like; however, if someone (day Hiker, section Hiker, overnight Hiker) comes in with a reservation and the shelter is full, we thru hikers have to give up our spot in the shelter. But the bonus is that when the shelter is full, then you're allowed to set up a tent! Oh and also, because it's federally run, the privys have wheelchair bars. Never mind that there's steps only to get to the privy and obviously the trails aren't paved. But whatever, that's government for you.

So anyway that night, we stay at Mt. Collins shelter and in the shelter registry ( a notebook in every shelter that hikers write notes in about whatever. Kind of like a Hiker FB feed) for 3 pages, everyone was talking about beware Buddy the red squirrel. We weren't there 5 minutes and saw this red squirrel. He was very bold! He was sitting on a tree stump 8 feet away from the shelter so when Rob went to grab his camera, this little shit ran right up to about a foot from him! Also, while Rob' & my backpack were suspended on the food cables 15 feet of the ground, this little jerk chewed through Rob's back pack and into his food bag. Apparently he decided ramen was beneath him cause that's as far as he got. 

The next day we hiked on and got amazing trail magic. This lady had backed her car into the parking lot and had coffee, doughnuts, crackers, fresh oranges and other stuff for the hikers.

We kept hiking and about mile 5 we started hearing thunder in the distance and saw huge black clouds rolling in. We got a bit misted on but reached the shelter 5 minutes before it stated pouring and even hailing. After a 16 mile day, it was just nice to be dry in the shelter (now in Tennessee)! 

The next day was a record speed day for us as we did 13 miles in about 6 1/2 hours. We were again racing the clouds and rain. When it's sunny, it was 85 degrees with 80 - 100% humidity. Wet heat, dry heat, doesn't matter, it's all hot and your sticky and soaking wet after awhile! It's definitely more relaxing to listen to the rain patter on the roof of the shelter when you know you and your stuff is all dry. 

Beating the storm

So after a lovely stay at the Fontana Hilton (sans the golf club wielding redneck)

 

We were off again to go towards our next milestones; crossing into our third state, Tennessee, hitting the 200 mile marker, and hiking the highest point on the AT, Clingman's Dome. 

We trekked up an area known as Thunderhead Mountain, but being that it was a rough climb, we renamed it Thunder Dome, Bitch! Mountain. However being a clear day, the views of the Smokies were amazing. 

When we reached the shelter for the night it was very packed. Not only with thru hikers but also with some odd female section hikers that were afraid of mice (pretty much all the shelters are infested with them), were braiding everyone's hair and even putting on make up before they left the next morning. We got out early and hiked 12 miles to our next shelter which was also packed. We met up with our Hiker friend Heavy who offered us a ride into Gatlinburg the next day because of the impending storm. We agreed! 

The next day started cold, cloudy and very windy as we hauled ass up a very rocky mountain towards Clingman's dome. I might add that over breakfast, an old man, very hard of hearing asked Heavy about Clingman's Dome. Heavy said 'my car is parked at Clingman's Dome'. The old man clearly didn't hear him and didn't care but continued to ask Heavy questions. Heavy's answer was still, my car is parked up there. The old man kept talking. We started cracking up. So we hauled ass, 10.5 miles in 5.5 hours to get to the car and narrowly beat the storm down. 

So here we were in a very cheesy town that resembles a boardwalk. Everything is really big and overdone, like a circus or carnival. We're pretty sure Ripley's owns stock in this town cause there's at least 6 attractions in 2 square miles. Did I mention we're about 20 minutes from Dollywood?!?! Yeah that kind of tourist cheese that people looooove! 

Every one was wearing these. Yes it's better than being soaked by the rain but still so hilarious to watch people wearing glorified trash bags that are emblazoned with a black bear and say 'great smoky mountains'. I couldn't stop giggling at the sight. Oh and every bs t shirt tourist store was selling them like beads on Bourbon at Mardi Gras. 

We had beers with Heavy then he had to leave. And today we took our first ever zero (no miles gained on the trail) day. We weren't particularly thrilled about it but it was nice to eat real food for a day and give our bodies a much needed rest. And yes, beer counts!! When you're burning 4000 - 6000 calories a day, you can drink your calories any way you want!! It's all part of the Hiker diet! At the Mellow Mushroom tonight we were entertained by a bartender named "Ike" who was cracking us up with the stories of the 'man hating cabal' from across the plaza at Dick's Last Resort. Too damn funny!!! Amongst all this touristy cheese, there are some cool sights like a candy store that's been here since 1957 and still makes pulled taffy the same way it always has. 

So after a great day it's off to bed to rest out little hiker heads so we can go back to the trail tomorrow. We'll catch up in about 5 days when we hit Hot Springs, NC (the part of the trail we're on for the week through the Smokies straddles the state line between NC & TN). 

Oh yeah! For any of Rob's margaritaville friends reading, we found 'Southern McGovern'!! Seriously, I would pay for a bottle of whiskey to watch these two meet and talk!!! 

Oh and apparently, black bears come down and roam freely in the town. One was wandering the halls of our motel last night and went and checked out Restaurant 'de Dumpster and then left. Crazy.. We still haven't seen one yet. Or wild boars which are also in the Smokies!! 

Long couple days..

So after our delightful town visit in Franklin, we had to hike up to 5000 feet, only to hike down to 1700 to a place called the Nantahalla Outdoor Center.

White water rafting, zip lining, kayaking, super cool place. The fact that we were there on a Saturday was even more awesome. We stuffed ourselves with 1/2 lb burgers and beer and listened to live music. Then we were reunited with some of our Hiker friends, Mary, Skipper, Pickles and the puppies Snaggletooth and Little Spoon.
Then Tramp, Grizzly, and Spyder showed us some awesome free camping right by the River.
Then an ugly hike in the morning up 4000 feet over 6 miles. We ended up going farther to camp (a little rough). And then came down to Fontana Dam. What a tourist trap!! Nothing was open till Thursday through Sunday. Not helpful when you're there on a Tuesday! We stayed at the Hiker famous Fontana Hilton. It's a shelter on the trail with real bathrooms and a solar shower and amazing views of the lake. Oh and even some excitement with a horseback-riding-golf-club-wielding-drunk-redneck.

Now we're hiking through the great Smoky Mountain National Park. I will post more when we get to Gatlinburg, TN!